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Glossary

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This list gives you a short overview of some of the most common terms used for leathers. As there are so many different terms, names and trademarks out there, this list is by no means complete. If you feel that a particular term is missing do let us know.Linguistic differences may include ambiguity as a particular term is used slightly differently in other parts of the world and by other people. Here we only wish to provide clarity for visitors of our web page so that it is clearer what we mean with a particular term even as we are aware that sometimes a term is used interchangeably from the description offered here. Should you find obvious errors in our guide do let us know.

Linguistic differences may include ambiguity as a particular term is used slightly differently in other parts of the world and by other people. Here we only wish to provide clarity for visitors of our web page so that it is clearer what we mean with a particular term even as we are aware that sometimes a term is used interchangeably from the description offered here. Should you find obvious errors in our guide do let us know.

 

Aged

A surface treatment to the watch strap that gives the leather an appearance of natural “patina” otherwise resulting from prolonged wear for a more vintage look.

Buckle, Clasp

Pin Clasp
A pin clasp or buckle that connects the two separate tabs of the watch strap and locks them together with the pin of the buckle. The pin clasp is the most wide-spread clasp used on non-metal straps.

Folding Buckles
A type of buckle that connects the two tabs of the watch strap or bracelet at all times. It is attached to the one tab without holes and can be preset to a suitable hole of nonmetal straps in the other tab for a snug fit when closed. For metal bracelets the folding buckle may include some length adjustment in combination with removable links of the bracelet (for a larger adjustment range). Folding buckles come in two varieties: either of a single sided folding design or a symmetrical double-folding design. In the latter case it is referred to as butterfly buckle. The latter has the advantage that it can be more centrally located on wrist in comparison to the single-sided folding buckle. The key advantage of any folding buckle design is that the watch will always stay on the wrist irrespective of whether the buckle is open or closed. Folding buckles are the most widely used mechanism on metal bracelets.

Edge Paint

The varnish used to seal the edges of the watch strap. Good quality edge paint not only seals the edge but gives a nice, smooth and rounded appearance such that the internal layering of the strap composite is concealed. BELGARDE uses up to nine layers of edge paint.

Embossed

The making of patterns on the surface of the leather. These patterns most often give the appearance of reptile skin such as alligator. Other patterns include cross-hatches for a sportier look while retaining the natural feel of a leather strap over a synthetic strap.

Epsom

An embossed leather that gives it a textured look much like buffalo or stingray leather, yet at a much finer pitch and quite often also in many different patterns other than scale embossing.

Flat Strap

Using the spring bar tool, compress the spring loaded tip of the yet free end and gently nudge it into the pin hole of the opposing horn of the watch case. Repeat steps 4 to 6 on the other side of the watch case.

Gator Calf

A Belgarde watch strap that is made from embossed calf leather having predominantly an alligator-scale pattern.

Lacquer

This is the liquid used to seal the edges of leather watch straps. Belgarde watch straps use six layers to give this supple quality finish. Other brands use a thicker, more viscous lacquer which saves time during application. However, such straps are more prone to delamination.

Liner

The strap material that actually rest on your skin. This can be almost any material, from synthetics to leather and textiles. Obviously a high-end watch strap uses a specially prepared leather liner for this smooth feel.

Nubuk

This is a processed cattle leather whose surface has been sanded to give it a look and feel like suede but with less “fuzz”. It is generally velvety to the touch and more costly than Suede. Brushing over its surface will temporarily change its sheen depending on the direction of the stroke.

Polished

Not unlike polishing a surface of metal to achieve a high-gloss appearance, a similar process can used on leathers particularly leathers of lesser quality having scars etc. The polishing process removes these albeit at the cost of the leather’s strength. Often additional surface treatments are applied, which may not stand the test of the time by discoloring, peeling and cracking.

Round Strap

A watch strap with internal profile. A round strap has a thickness across its width that is not uniform (as in the flat strap). Round straps obviously have a curved cross-section such that the strap is thicker in the middle of the cross- section. This may be desirable to maintain pleasant proportion particularly for larger watches and often for alligator straps on Fine Watches. Often the profile is a simple curve but sometimes it consist of two rides along the strap length.

Stitching

This is what keeps leather and textile strap together and is the classic appearance of watch straps. Stitching has several variables: thread color and thickness and pitch, the length of the individual stitch step, all contributing to a well balanced quality strap. Sportier straps often make use of contrast stitching, where a thread of different color is used.

Suede

Unlike top grain leather, Suede is made from the underside of the animal skin, often from Lamb, Goat and Deer. It is softer and less durable than the top grain but has a very velvety, fuzzy feel. It soaks up liquids quite easily and so stains readily. Brushing over its surface will temporarily change its sheen depending on the direction of the stroke.

Tanning

The processes of turning an animal hide into leather. This process can involve some rather toxic chemicals. More recently or perhaps in a return to the original processes, natural tanning has gained renewed interest as consumers are exposed daily to a myriad of chemicals.

Top Grain Leather

This is Full Grain Leather with its top-most layer removed, which makes it easier to work with. Nevertheless, it is one of the most expensive types of cattle leather that can be used. It exhibits all the natural attributes so coveted in leather together with excellent durability.

Watch Band

Strap
At BELGARDE we refer to all watch attachments made from leather, textile or synthetics as Watch straps. Naturally, many people also refer to them as watchbands or bracelets (from French), which is of course equally valid.

Bracelet
At BELGARDE we refer to all metal watch bands as bracelets. With very few exceptions, bracelets consist of individual links to afford the bracelets the flexibility required in its application on the human body.

Water Resistant

Apart from synthetic straps and metal bracelets BELGARDE does not recommend wearing a leather strap in water. Even though most leathers are forgivable to occasional splashes of water it is generally not recommended as your strap tends to deteriorate faster. Water can get into your strap at seams and the holes, which can foster bloating and of course the growth of organisms picked up from your skin.

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